NEWSDAY: The best things to eat on Long Island

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Funghi pizzetta at Vespa Italian Kitchen & Bar

The roaring wood-fired oven at Vespa Italian Kitchen

(Credit: Yvonne Albinowski)The roaring wood-fired oven at Vespa Italian Kitchen & Bar in Farmingdale delivers a distinctively charred and airy funghi pizzetta that is notable for its sautéed button and portabella mushrooms and truffle oil drizzle. The flavor is earthy and peppery — the latter from a handful of arugula.

Pappardelle melanzane at Vespa Italian Kitchen & Bar

Pappardelle melanzane, thick ribbons of pasta with Marsala-eggplant

(Credit: Yvonne Albinowski)Pappardelle melanzane, thick ribbons of pasta with Marsala-eggplant ragu, ricotta and ricotta salata, is served at Vespa Italian Kitchen & Bar in Farmingdale.

Osso buco at Vespa Italian Kitchen & Bar

The osso bucco at Vespa Italian Kitchen &

(Credit: Yvonne Albinowski)The osso bucco at Vespa Italian Kitchen & Bar in Farmingdale is a hit on all three of its elements. A 28-ounce bone-in pork shank simmers in tomato sauce for four hours, until the meat yields to a fork and the liquid concentrates in flavor. The shank rests on a mushroom and green and yellow squash risotto creamy enough to be a stand-alone dish.

Linguine with white clam sauce at Vespa Italian Kitchen & Bar

The linguine with clam sauce at Vespa Italian

(Credit: Yvonne Albinowski)The linguine with clam sauce at Vespa Italian Kitchen & Bar in Farmingdale has straightforward flavors from clam juice and garlic. Spread throughout the pasta are chopped clams, topped with about 10 tender whole ones.

Grilled sausage and broccoli rabe at Vespa Italian Kitchen & Bar

Grilled

(Credit: Yvonne Albinowski)Grilled “pinwheel” parsley-cheese pork sausage served with sautéed broccoli rabe is an honest, tasty plate at Vespa Italian Kitchen & Bar in Farmingdale.

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